2011-2013 secondary air pump delete

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2011-2013 secondary air pump delete

Post by mikey_b6 on Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:30 pm

so I decided back in September 2013 I decided to start my air pump delete. so far from the other threads I read for pros and cons, the pros are the engine bay is cleaner, looks nicer, less material to retain heat, lightens your car approximately 7-8 pounds. the cons are that you either have to have it protuned out, or remove the fuses that deal with the solenoids, or leave the driver side solenoid plugged in electronicly or you will have P2431 and P2433 codes. so here was the process. note: this isn't very easy without taking the intake manifold, im too cheap to buy new gaskets.

so I started by removing the pump itself, tucked the plug and removed the bracket holding it on. for a while I had just the open hole plugged with a cap. but it looked tacky. I had also ordered the tomioka racing blocking plates so I had those available today.

after the pump is off, get your front end on jack stands or on a lift. just on the back left side of the block is the solenoid that you will have to leave attached in a new location if you don't tune it out. once its off, take the bigger plate and install it. theres a tube running to the top of the motor. follow it up, and its to the other solenoid under your turbo inlet and intake manifold.

here comes the fun...

theres two bolts on the solenoid, and 2 on the pipe. neither are easy. will no thread to follow, I had to expirement. its possible to do this without removing the manifold, but impossible to do with the turbo inlet on. remove the turbo inlet and clear up as many wires and hoses as possible to see. the two bolts on the pipe are going to take a bunch of quarter turns. all four on this side are 10mm. use the wrench and start quarter turning from above the engine, kinda tightbut its the easiest way unless you drop the up pipe and headers. once those two are out, get to the top of the engine and get the two nuts off. the metal tubing has to be bent a bit to clear the solenoid.

the plate goes on and your in business. put everything back on and double triple check connectors and wires.

other then bending the metal tubes, no other alterations need to happen. youll get a few cuts and nicks but its the only way.

have fun and let me know your expiriences!

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Re: 2011-2013 secondary air pump delete

Post by mikey_b6 on Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:57 pm

correction, the solenoid you need to leave plugged in is the passenger side. the driver side only has power going to it, the atmospheric pressure sensors are in the passenger side solenoid. I hooked mine backup today. all you have to do is take off the TMIC if you have one in the way, pull the wiring harness through the tubes and hoses, connect it back up, tuck it beside the turbo and pretty much ontop of your top pitch mount, and put the TMIC back on. I know that seems a little loose but its tight. im going FMIC soon anyways so ill have to find a new spot if I haven't had it tuned out already.

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Re: 2011-2013 secondary air pump delete

Post by STi2eNvy on Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:11 pm

I installed the Torque Solutions Plates on TJs WRX yesterday afternoon. He is getting a protune next week and wont be driving the car until its time for his tune since he is getting eye surgery on tuesday. So, as long as he is getting it tuned, I dont have to leave anything plugged in correct? Its only to avoid the codes & stuff?

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Re: 2011-2013 secondary air pump delete

Post by mikey_b6 on Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:07 pm

yeah itll be fine. itll have the code but just don't start it if you don't want to stare at the flashing cruise control

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